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build_a_bra

As a Trans femme that's built like a brick pile, finding pocket bras that would hold the inserts were very challenging, and the few that worked were either expensive, or didn't have quite the functionality I needed, or support. So, I dug out the sewing machine that my mother gave to me, and modified some cotton tank bras. Here's how I did it.


Step 0: Youll need:
two cotton tank bras. I like the racerback style, but really anything will work. Matching the bra colors is optional.  I find that the multi-packs from the various resellers work pretty well and give a reasonable return.
thread color to match the outer bra.
a sewing machine thats capable of doing a zig-zag stitch. (thats pretty much all of them except the cheesy hand-held ones.)

Step 1: take two bras and put one inside the other.
The stacked bras. line up the bands, make sure they are both facing the right direction, etc.
Load your sewing machine with thread to match the outer bras color, and set it to make a zig-zag stitch, because these are sports bras originally and made of t-shirt fabric, and will stretch. The stitching needs to accommodate that.

I start with the band of the bra, because thats the easiest part, but if you have a cheaper machine, it may struggle at the side seams due to the layers of fabric. On this 50s vintage machine, the seam just barely fits under the presser foot, and thats where I start.
To lock the stitching in, I like to run 4-6 stitches manually, back up the same, and then run the machine forward. this provides a nice way to lock the stitching in.
As you are sewing the zig zah, youll want to stretch both of the bras out for the elastic.
RUn that stitching all the way around the band. Neatness is optional, at least for me. :D I try to keep the stitching mostly in the center of the band, at least.  

When youve made a full circle, run the machine in reverse to lock the end of the stitching up, raise the needle out of the fabric, lift up the foot, and trim the threads.
Repeat for the armholes- try to keep the stiching as close to the edge as possible without slipping free of the fabric. 

For the neck hole, youll want to leave the front of the two bras open, as this forms the pocket the inserts go into. The bras Im  melding together have a convenient seam along the upper shoulder, and I use that as a start/stop point for the neck hole.
Step 6: to provide some seperation and remove the appearance of the dreaded Uni-Boob :), run a zig-zag lin down the middle front of the bra to make two pockets, stopping short of the top in order to make it a little easier to put the insert in.

Now, depending on the size of the inserts, this step may not be needed; For my frame, my normal size inserts are the 2400 gram models, but if you are going for the huge tracts of land look, the middle seam will only make it more difficult to shove those 6000 gram puppies into the bra. lol

Now: you WILL feel like you are wearing four t-shirts on your front, because you effectively are. the fronts of the tank bras I have are double layer, presumably to provide support. They will be a bit more difficult to put on and take off, and youll want to put the bra on before putting the inserts in, and take the inserts out before taking the bra off. (Ive taken them off with the inserts in place, but its not a fun time.)

These arent the lacy, delicate bras- the best Ive found in that department are the Glamorize brand, as they have a bit of fabric around the bottom wire that makes a bit of a ledge to keep the inserts from sliding out under the bra. 

The other reason why I made these bras is because I dont want to ruin a $40-$60 undergarment by jumping into the pool after a hot day of running around, or if Im wearing something thats skin tight and thin enough that the lace prints through.  (I did that for Ren Faire, though, because I was feeling a little spicy. WORTH IT.)
     
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